Cognac

H. Joseph Ehrmann, is the owner of Elixir in San Francisco, the second oldest bar in San Fransisco and recognized as “a center piece of the neighborhood”. Thanks to him, my shelter at home experience greatly improved with a tasting of four different Cognac’s. Two of my friends and I, sitting the required “six feet apart” had an opportunity to sample and learn about this spirit. Cognac is a high quality type of brandy from the Cognac wine growing region in western France. It is produced from white wine that is distilled twice in copper to become eau de vie and then aged in French oak for at least two years. At this two year point, the eau de vie can be called Cognac. Blending is done by Master Blenders and then tasted by select committees of each producer. The categories are distinguished by the youngest “eau de vie” blend in the Cognac and that age is what determines the category of the Cognac. However, other older eau de vie could also be used in that blend. For example, the label VS on the bottle of Cognac would mean the youngest “eau de vie” in the blend is two years old. While in VSOP the minimum age of the “eau de vie” is four years old and the label of XO, the minimum age of the “eau of vie” in the blend must be at least ten years old. There are more than two hundred producers of Cognac in France and they are regulated by the legal product control of the “appellation d’origine controlee” or AOC.

Tasting notes. (Side note, all four tastings were with one ice cube in each glass)

1) Frapin VS

Established in 1270 Frapin is one of the oldest purveyors of Cognac with over twenty consecutive generations. The youngest “eau de vie” in this bottle has spent two years in French oak. It presents with smokey flavors of nutmeg and chocolate and has a long smooth finish of vanilla, honey and caramel.

2) La Fayette VSOP

Created using the traditional production methods that started in the 1800s and is most often enjoyed as a digestif after dinner. The youngest brandy in this blend has aged at least four years in French oak. Tasting notes were spice forward of pumpkin, clove, nutmeg and cinnamon and some nuanced dried fruit. It had a lovely harmonious finish of sweet honey.

3) Merlet VSOP

Produced by the Merlet family, dating back to 1850, this is a versatile Cognac. The tasting notes were peach and citrus with a scent of cloves. The long finish was of licorice and butterscotch. This is a blend of four different “eau de vie” from the Cognac region, and the youngest “eau de vie” is has spent four years in French oak. Reviews describe this as a great liquor cabinet addition as it can be used as a base for any favorite cocktail recipe.

4) Merlet XO

A most prestigious Cognac which presents with a distinct smell of oak and stonefruit, followed by notes of caramel and vanilla. The long finish is rich and smooth with lingering heat in the throat. This was a favorite among the three tasting participants and was described as the classic cognac.